Wheel-Thrown Plates
Throwing a plate on the wheel is fundamentally different from throwing a bowl or mug. Instead of pulling walls upward, you push the floor outward. Center 2-3 pounds of clay, open it, and spread the floor wide while leaving a short rim — about one inch tall. The floor of the plate is the most important surface, and it must be even in thickness and well-compressed.
Stephen Jepson stresses floor compression above all else when teaching plates. Use a rib to press firmly across the entire floor surface. This aligns the clay particles, prevents S-cracks, and creates a smooth eating surface. Skip this step and the plate will crack in the kiln almost every time.
The Rim
A plate rim can be flat, curved upward, or flared outward. The rim keeps food on the plate and gives you a surface to grip. Leave the rim slightly thicker than the floor — thin rims dry faster and are prone to cracking. Shape the rim profile on the wheel, then refine it during trimming.
Hump Molds
A hump mold is a convex form — you drape a clay slab over the top. The outside of the plate takes the mold's shape while the inside is open for decoration. Roll a slab to even thickness, drape it over the mold, and smooth it into place. Trim the edges with a knife. Hump molds are excellent for consistent plate shapes and for potters who do not have a wheel.
Drape Molds and Slab Plates
Drape (Slump) Molds
A drape mold is concave — you press the slab into the inside. The inside surface of the plate takes the mold's shape. This method is ideal when the inside surface matters most, such as decorative plates with painted designs. The slab must be thick enough to hold its shape but thin enough to dry without cracking.
Free-Form Slab Plates
Roll a slab, cut it into a circle or organic shape, and build up a rim by hand. No mold needed. Free-form plates have a handmade quality that wheel-thrown plates cannot match. They work well for serving platters, cheese boards, and decorative pieces.
Foot Ring vs. Flat Base
A foot ring lifts the plate off the table surface, prevents scratching, and makes the plate easier to pick up. Trim the foot ring from the bottom of a leather-hard plate on the wheel — aim for about half an inch wide and a quarter inch tall. A flat base is simpler and stacks more efficiently but can scratch table surfaces. For everyday dinner plates, Stephen Jepson recommends a foot ring.
Warping Prevention
Plates warp because of uneven drying. The wide, flat center dries faster than the rim and underside, causing the plate to curl, dip, or twist. Prevention requires discipline during both making and drying.
- Even thickness — The floor, rim, and foot must all be the same thickness.
- Thorough compression — Compress both surfaces of the floor with a rib.
- Slow drying — Dry plates under plastic for the first 48 hours.
- Flat surface — Dry on drywall, plaster bat, or canvas. Never on plastic or metal.
- Flip once — Flip the plate upside down halfway through drying so both sides dry evenly.
Plate Forms
- Dinner plates — 10-11 inches, slight rim, foot ring. The everyday workhorse.
- Salad plates — 7-8 inches, matching the dinner plate profile in miniature.
- Platters — 14+ inches, often oval. Requires extra clay and careful drying.
- Chargers — 12-13 inches, flat or nearly flat. Used under dinner plates for formal settings.
- Serving dishes — Wide, shallow bowls with broad rims. A hybrid of plate and bowl forms.