Pottery Wheel Techniques — From Centering to Finishing

Stephen Jepson has spent decades at the wheel. At 93, he still throws daily — and he's distilled every technique into clear, watchable lessons. Here's what you'll master.

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The Five Core Wheel Techniques

Every pot thrown on a wheel follows the same sequence: center, open, pull, shape, trim. Master each stage and you can make anything — bowls, mugs, vases, plates. Rush any stage and the pot pays for it.

Step 1

Centering the Clay

Centering is the foundation. Place your wedged clay on the wheel head, wet your hands, and use steady, symmetrical pressure to push the clay into a perfectly balanced dome. The wheel should spin fast — this is where speed is your friend.

Common mistake: Using arm muscles instead of body weight. Lean into the clay, don't squeeze it.
Step 2

Opening the Clay

Once centered, press your thumbs into the top center while the wheel spins at medium speed. Push down to within half an inch of the bat, then widen outward to establish your floor. The floor width determines everything that follows.

Common mistake: Going too deep and punching through the bottom. Leave at least half an inch.
Step 3

Pulling Walls

Place one hand inside and one outside at the base of the wall. Squeeze gently and draw upward in smooth, steady motions. Use minimal water — just enough to keep your hands gliding. Three to four gradual pulls beat one aggressive one every time.

Common mistake: Pulling too thin too fast. Each pull should remove only a small amount of thickness.
Step 4

Shaping the Form

With your walls established, slow the wheel down and use gentle inward or outward pressure to create your desired shape. Support the outside while shaping from within for bowls. For cylinders, keep even pressure on both sides.

Common mistake: Shaping before the walls are tall enough. Get your height first, then shape.
Step 5

Trimming and Finishing

After the piece dries to leather-hard, invert it on the wheel and use trimming tools to refine the foot ring, remove excess clay from the bottom, and create a clean, balanced profile. This is where a good pot becomes a beautiful one.

Common mistake: Trimming when the clay is too wet or too dry. Leather-hard is the sweet spot.

"The wheel doesn't make the pot — your hands do. The wheel just holds the clay still while you work."

— Stephen Jepson, 93 years old, master potter, Geneva, Florida

Why Learn Wheel Techniques From Stephen Jepson?

Stephen Jepson has been throwing pottery for decades. At 93, he still works at the wheel daily in his Geneva, Florida studio. His teaching method breaks every technique into its smallest components so you can see exactly what your hands should be doing at each moment.

His video course covers every wheel technique shown above — and dozens more — with close-up camera angles that show hand position, pressure, and timing in real detail. You won't just watch someone throw; you'll understand why each movement matters.

What the Video Course Covers

Master Every Wheel Technique

Video instruction from a 93-year-old master potter. One-time purchase, lifetime access, all lessons included.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is the hardest pottery wheel technique to learn?
Centering is universally considered the hardest technique for beginners. It requires coordinated pressure from both hands while the wheel spins, and most new potters need 2-3 weeks of regular practice before it clicks. Once centering becomes second nature, everything else gets dramatically easier.
How fast should the pottery wheel spin?
Speed changes at every stage. Use fast speed (about 200-300 RPM) for centering, medium speed for opening and pulling walls, and slow speed for shaping and detail work. A common beginner mistake is using one speed for everything.
Why do my pots wobble on the wheel?
Wobbling almost always means the clay was not properly centered before you started opening. Other causes include uneven pressure while pulling walls, too much water weakening one side, or clay that was not wedged thoroughly enough to eliminate air pockets.
When should I trim my pottery?
Trim when the clay reaches leather-hard stage — firm enough to hold its shape when inverted but soft enough to carve with a trimming tool. This is typically 12-24 hours after throwing, depending on humidity and thickness. If your fingernail leaves a clean mark without the clay deforming, it is ready.