Ceramic Mug Making — Throw Your First Mug

A handmade mug is the most personal piece of pottery you can create. Follow these steps from centering to glazing and make a mug you will reach for every morning.

Watch Stephen Throw Mugs

Why the Mug Is the Ultimate Pottery Project

The humble mug tests every fundamental pottery skill: centering, pulling walls, trimming a foot, pulling a handle, and glazing. Master potter Stephen Jepson, at 93 years old, still says the mug is his favorite form to teach because it covers the full journey from raw clay to a finished, functional piece you use every day.

A well-made mug becomes part of someone's daily ritual. It's the first thing they reach for in the morning and the last thing they hold at night. That intimacy makes the mug the most rewarding form in pottery.

Step-by-Step: Throwing the Mug Body

1. Wedge and Center

Start with about 1 pound of well-wedged stoneware clay. Slam it firmly onto a damp bat and begin centering. Use steady pressure — both hands working together — until the clay spins perfectly still under your fingers. Centering is the foundation. If your clay isn't centered, your mug will wobble and have uneven walls.

2. Open the Floor

Press your thumb or fingers into the center of the spinning clay, stopping about 3/8 inch from the bat. This creates the floor of your mug. Check thickness by pushing a needle tool through the floor — you'll feel it hit the bat.

3. Pull the Walls

With one hand inside and one outside, pull the clay upward in 3–4 passes. Each pass thins the walls and raises the height. Aim for walls about 1/4 inch thick, 4 inches tall, and 3 inches in diameter. Keep your hands linked (thumb to thumb) for stability.

4. Shape and Refine

Collar in slightly at the top for a comfortable rim. Use a rib tool on the outside to smooth, compress, and refine the shape. Sponge excess water from the inside. Create a slight outward flare at the lip — this makes drinking comfortable. Clean the base with a chamois or finger.

Trimming the Foot

When the mug reaches leather-hard stage (firm but still carvable), center it upside down on the wheel. Use trimming tools to carve a foot ring about 1/4 inch tall and 1/4 inch wide. The foot ring lifts the mug off the table, gives it a professional look, and provides a place to hold during glazing.

Handle Techniques

Traditional

Pulled Handle

The most common and strongest handle method. Start with a thick slug of well-wedged clay. Wet your hands and stroke downward repeatedly, gradually thinning and lengthening the clay into a strap shape. The cross-section should be slightly oval — not perfectly round — for a comfortable grip.

Attach the top to a scored and slipped spot just below the rim. Curve the handle outward for finger clearance, then press the bottom attachment firmly. Leave enough room for 2–3 fingers.

Alternative

Extruded Handle

Use a clay extruder with a handle-shaped die to create consistent, uniform handles. Cut to length, let stiffen slightly, then attach with score-and-slip. Extruded handles are efficient for production work but lack the organic feel of pulled handles.

Alternative

Slab Handle

Roll clay into a slab, cut a handle shape, and allow it to stiffen. Bend to shape and attach. Slab handles offer more design flexibility — you can cut decorative shapes, add texture, or create wide, flat handles for a modern look.

Glazing Your Mug

After bisque firing to cone 06, your mug is ready for glaze. Hold the mug by the foot, dip into glaze for 3 seconds, and pull out smoothly. Wipe glaze from the foot ring and about 1/4 inch up the sides to prevent sticking to the kiln shelf. For the inside, pour glaze in, swirl to coat, and pour out.

Choose food-safe glazes for any mug you plan to drink from. Test new glazes on tiles before committing to a finished piece.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How much clay do you need for a mug?
About 1 pound (450g) of clay for the mug body, plus a small piece for the handle. This makes a standard 12–14 oz mug. For larger mugs (16–20 oz), use 1.25–1.5 pounds. Beginners should start with slightly more clay to allow for trimming.
Why do handles crack or fall off mugs?
Handles crack when they dry faster than the mug body. After attaching, wrap the handle loosely in plastic so it dries at the same rate as the rest of the piece. Handles fall off when the attachment points weren't properly scored and slipped, or when the handle clay was a different moisture level than the body.
How do you make a comfortable mug handle?
A good handle should fit 2–3 fingers comfortably, curve away from the mug body enough for knuckle clearance, and taper slightly from top to bottom. The cross-section should be slightly flattened — not round — for a secure grip. Pull handles from well-wedged clay for strength.
What is the best clay for making mugs?
Mid-fire stoneware fired to cone 6 is the best all-around choice. It is durable, food-safe, microwave-safe, and dishwasher-safe when properly glazed. Popular choices include Standard 266, Laguna B-Mix, and Highwater Little Loafers. Avoid earthenware for functional mugs as it remains porous.