Pottery Vase Making

From simple bud vases to dramatic floor pieces, vase making is where potters develop their voice. Learn cylinder pulling, coil building, and shaping techniques from master potter Stephen Jepson.

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The Foundation: Pulling a Cylinder

Every wheel-thrown vase starts as a cylinder. Center 2-3 pounds of clay, open the floor, and pull the walls straight up. The goal is even thickness — about a quarter inch throughout — and a consistent height all the way around. Stephen Jepson teaches that mastering the cylinder is the single most important skill on the wheel. Once you can throw a reliable cylinder, every vase form opens up to you.

Keep your hands steady, use consistent pressure, and pull slowly. Speed causes wobbles. Patience produces pots.

Shaping and Flaring

After the cylinder is established, shape from the bottom up. Push outward gently for a belly, collar inward for a neck. Flare the rim last — support the outside with one hand while opening with the other. The key is working while the clay is still wet enough to move but firm enough to hold its shape.

Hand-Built Vase Methods

Coil-Built Vases

Coil building gives you complete control over shape and size with no wheel required. Roll even coils, stack them in rings, and blend the joints smooth. You can build forms that would be impossible on a wheel — square vases, asymmetric shapes, or pieces taller than your arm span. Score and slip each coil before adding the next for a strong bond.

Slab-Constructed Vases

Roll clay flat, cut geometric shapes, and join them into angular vase forms. Slab vases have a modern, architectural quality that stands apart from round wheel-thrown work. Use a rolling pin or slab roller for consistent thickness, and let slabs firm to leather-hard before assembling.

Proportions and Balance

A well-proportioned vase follows natural ratios. The widest point is typically one-third up from the base. The neck opening is about one-third the width of the belly. The foot should be wide enough for stability but not so wide it looks heavy. Stephen Jepson emphasizes that proportion is what separates student work from professional pieces.

Trimming the Foot

Flip your leather-hard vase upside down on the wheel and trim the foot ring. A well-trimmed foot lifts the piece visually, makes it lighter, and gives it a professional finish. Trim away excess clay from the bottom, carve a foot ring about half an inch wide, and clean the transition from foot to wall.

Pro Tip: When throwing tall vases, let the lower section stiffen for 15-20 minutes before pulling the upper walls. This prevents the weight of the upper clay from collapsing the base. Stephen Jepson calls this "building in stages" and it is essential for any vase over 10 inches tall.

Gallery of Vase Forms

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you throw a vase on a pottery wheel?
Start by centering 2-3 pounds of clay. Open the floor, then pull the walls up into a tall cylinder. Keep walls even at about 1/4 inch thick. Shape the belly and neck after the cylinder is established. Work from the bottom up.
What is the best clay for making vases?
Stoneware clay is ideal for vases — it is strong, holds its shape when tall, and fires to a durable finish. For beginners, a grogged stoneware provides extra structure. Porcelain makes beautiful vases but is harder to control on the wheel.
How do you keep a tall vase from collapsing?
Work slowly and let sections firm up between pulls. Keep the wheel speed moderate. Use less water than you think — too much weakens the walls. If the clay starts wobbling, stop and let it stiffen for 10-15 minutes before continuing.
What are the different types of vase forms?
Common forms include bud vases (small, narrow neck), bottle-neck vases (wide body, narrow opening), cylinder vases (straight sides), floor vases (tall, 18+ inches), and flared vases (wide rim). Each requires different shaping techniques.