Pottery Tile Making

Handmade tiles bring the warmth of pottery to walls, floors, and outdoor spaces. Each tile carries the fingerprint of its maker — subtle variations in color, texture, and form that mass-produced tiles cannot replicate. Whether you are making a kitchen backsplash or decorative art tiles, the process is deeply satisfying.

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Why Handmade Tiles Are Special

Walk into any home with a handmade tile backsplash and you feel the difference immediately. The slight variations in glaze color where it pools thicker in pressed designs. The soft edges where clay was cut by hand instead of die-stamped by machine. The way light plays differently across each tile because no two fired exactly the same. Handmade tiles transform a functional surface into a work of art.

Stephen Jepson made tiles throughout his teaching career at UCF, using them in his own home and studio. He considers tile-making one of the most accessible pottery skills — the basic technique is simple enough for a beginner, yet the decorative possibilities are sophisticated enough to challenge a master.

Tile-Making Methods

Slab-Rolled Tiles

The most common method. Roll a slab of clay to even thickness — typically a quarter to three-eighths of an inch — using guide sticks or a slab roller. Cut tiles to size with a knife and straightedge. The keys to flat tiles: use well-wedged clay, roll in multiple directions to equalize stress, and dry between plaster bats or drywall boards that absorb moisture evenly from both sides. Uneven drying is the enemy — it causes warping and curling.

Press-Molded Tiles

For consistent size and relief designs, press clay into plaster molds. Carve a design into a plaster block, press clay firmly into every detail, then scrape the back flat and unmold. Press molds produce perfect reproductions and are ideal for tiles with raised or recessed designs. You can make dozens of identical tiles from a single mold, which is essential for large installations like backsplashes.

Extruded Tiles

A clay extruder pushes clay through a die to create a continuous ribbon of uniform cross-section. Cut the ribbon into tiles of any length. Extrusion produces the most consistent thickness and is efficient for large quantities. The initial die-making takes time, but once set up, you can produce tiles very quickly.

Decorating Tiles

Underglaze Painting

Paint designs directly onto bisque-fired tiles with underglaze colors, then cover with a clear glaze and fire again. This technique allows detailed imagery — flowers, patterns, landscapes, lettering. Underglaze pencils and pens give even more control for fine lines. The clear glaze seals the color and creates a smooth, cleanable surface perfect for kitchens and bathrooms.

Carved and Stamped Designs

Press stamps, found objects, or carved tools into soft clay tiles before they dry. The impressions catch glaze, creating beautiful shadow effects when fired. Carve through a layer of colored slip to reveal the clay body beneath — sgraffito works beautifully on tiles. These techniques add tactile depth that you can feel when you run your hand across the finished installation.

Glaze Effects

Tiles are a perfect canvas for exploring glaze. Dip half a tile in one glaze and half in another. Layer multiple glazes. Spray gradients. Use wax resist to create patterns. Because tiles are flat, glazes behave predictably — pooling is minimal, runs are controlled by gravity. This makes tiles an excellent testing ground for new glaze combinations.

Preventing Warping

Flat clay wants to warp. The entire tile-making process is a battle against this tendency. Keys to success: use a grogged clay body that resists warping, roll slabs evenly, flip tiles during drying, dry slowly between absorbent boards, fire on flat kiln shelves, and do not rush any stage. Even a perfectly made tile can warp if dried unevenly or fired on a warped shelf. Patience and consistency produce flat tiles.

Installing Handmade Tiles

Handmade tiles are thicker and more irregular than commercial tiles. Use a thick-set mortar that can accommodate variations in thickness. A wider grout line — three-sixteenths to a quarter inch — forgives slight size differences. Use unsanded grout for narrow joints and sanded grout for wider ones. Seal grout to prevent staining, especially in kitchen applications. The installation takes longer than commercial tile but the result is incomparably beautiful.

Learn Tile-Making from Stephen Jepson

Stephen's pottery video lessons include tile-making techniques — slab rolling, press molding, decorating, glazing, and finishing. Whether you want a few decorative art tiles or a full backsplash installation, his instruction gives you the skills and confidence to create something extraordinary. One-time purchase, lifetime access.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How thick should handmade pottery tiles be?
A quarter to three-eighths of an inch is standard for wall tiles. Floor tiles should be three-eighths to half an inch for durability. Thinner tiles are lighter and use less clay but warp more easily. Thicker tiles are more forgiving but heavier and use more kiln space. Consistency within a batch matters more than absolute thickness.
How do I keep tiles from warping?
Use grogged clay, roll evenly, dry slowly between absorbent boards, flip tiles during drying, and fire on flat kiln shelves. Warping happens when one side dries or shrinks faster than the other. Even, controlled drying is the single most important factor in making flat tiles.
Can I use handmade tiles in a shower?
Yes, if they are stoneware fired to maturity with a waterproof glaze covering all surfaces. Vitrified stoneware absorbs less than one percent water, making it suitable for wet areas. Grout and seal properly. Earthenware tiles absorb too much water for shower use and will eventually fail.
How many tiles do I need for a backsplash?
Measure the area in square feet. A standard four-by-four-inch tile covers about 0.11 square feet. A typical kitchen backsplash is 15 to 30 square feet, requiring roughly 135 to 270 four-inch tiles. Make 10 to 15 percent extra to account for cutting, breakage, and kiln losses.