Pulled Handles — The Classic Method
Pulled handles are the hallmark of handmade pottery. Start with a thick piece of clay shaped like a carrot. Wet your pulling hand, grip near the top, and stroke downward with gentle, even pressure. Each stroke thins and lengthens the clay. Rotate slightly between pulls for even thickness. Stephen Jepson teaches that a good handle takes about 15-20 pulls — rushing produces uneven results.
After pulling, let the handle stiffen for 15-30 minutes before attaching. A handle that is too wet will stretch and distort when placed on the mug. A handle that is too dry will not bond to the body.
Extruded Handles
A clay extruder pushes clay through a die to create perfectly uniform handles in any cross-section you design. Extruded handles are consistent, which matters for production potters making sets of matching mugs. The trade-off is that they lack the organic feel of pulled handles. Many potters use extruded handles as a starting point and then refine them by hand.
Slab Handles
Cut handles from a rolled slab of clay for a flat, modern look. Slab handles can be straight, curved, or twisted. They work well on angular forms and contemporary designs. Roll the slab to even thickness, cut your shape, let it stiffen slightly, then attach with score-and-slip.
Score and Slip — The Essential Bond
Every attachment point needs to be scored and slipped. Use a fork, needle tool, or serrated rib to scratch deep crosshatch marks on both surfaces being joined. Apply thick slip — clay dissolved in water to a paste consistency — to both scored surfaces. Press together firmly, then blend the edges with a finger or tool. A properly scored-and-slipped joint is stronger than the surrounding clay.
Lids, Knobs, and Spouts
Fitting a Lid
Throw the lid and pot from the same clay batch so they shrink at the same rate. Measure the inside opening with calipers and throw the lid flange to match. There are three main lid styles: a seated lid that drops into the opening, a cap lid that sits over the rim, and a flanged lid that rests on a gallery ledge. Stephen Jepson recommends starting with seated lids — they are the most forgiving for fit.
Knobs and Finials
A knob must be functional — large enough to grip comfortably, even with wet or oily hands. Throw a small knob on the wheel, or hand-shape one and attach it. The attachment point gets the most stress of any joint on a pot, so score deeply and use generous slip. A knob that pops off in someone's hand is a failure, no matter how beautiful the pot is.
Spout Construction
A teapot spout must pour cleanly without dripping. Throw a small cone shape, cut the tip at an angle, and attach it at the right height — the top of the spout should be level with or slightly above the rim of the pot. Score and slip generously. After attaching, drill small strainer holes through the pot wall behind the spout before the clay dries.
Troubleshooting Attachment Failures
- Handle falls off during drying — Not enough scoring or slip. Score deeper, use thicker slip, and press harder.
- Crack at the top attachment — The handle was too wet when attached. Let it stiffen more before joining.
- Crack at the bottom attachment — The mug body was too dry. Dampen the attachment area before scoring.
- Lid does not fit after firing — Different shrinkage rates. Use the same clay body and fire together.